13 July 2017

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A Receipt for Comfort: The Perfect Family Weekend in Berkeley Springs, WV

Sometimes travel can ground you. Every year since my eldest son was born, we take an annual trip to Berkeley Springs, West Virginia. After so many years, this trip takes no planning at all—except for the cabin reservation, which needs to be made well in advance for a fall weekend.

We pack up s’mores ingredients, sleeping bags, good books to read, a board game or two, a hatchet for cutting firewood, hot chocolate, and lots of layers.

We have our hiking trails mapped out, although we’ve added a couple of miles as the kids have grown.

We know exactly where we’re going to eat and, in some places, what we’re going to order.

It is basically the antithesis of our usual adventures into the unknown but we wouldn’t change a thing about it—believe me, I’ve tried to mix it up but I’m only met with confusion and disbelief.

This is our comfort trip.

Rent a rustic cabin at Cacapon

Part of the West Virginia State Park system, Cacapon State Park is about ten miles from the town of Berkeley Springs and offers lodge rooms and cabins. They have miles of trails, a great nature center, playgrounds, and an old-school lodge complete with basement game room with its requisite pool table, air hockey, shuffle board, and ping-pong. Nestled in the woods, the rustic log cabins were built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps and have large stone fireplaces for those ‘smores.

Eat lunch at Tari’s

Tari’s is a Berkley Springs institution and it’s the place to be during the weekend lunch hour. The food is fresh, varied, and affordable. We love the club sandwich, the soups and salads, and the crabcakes. Walls are festooned with local art for sale.

Visit the Frog Valley Artisans

This art cooperative is just a few miles up the mountain from the town of Berkeley Springs and it’s worth the detour. The setting is picturesque and the people very friendly. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the resident blacksmith at work. Note that they are not afraid to let kids try their hand at it—no annoying safety rules here. They also have working potters and stained glass makers. Unleash your kids in this area at your own risk. It’s a bit fragile for our particular limbs.

Take the Waters or Splash around George Washington’s bathtub

Mineral springs run through the town square in little streams and rock pools. When the weather’s warm, it’s incredibly fun to splash around in with the kids. George Washington himself used to come splash around in the mid 1700s and his “bathtub” still stands in the middle of the park. There are water fountains and taps so bring your bottles and take home some pure spring water.

Also on the main square, the historic Roman bathhouse, built in 1815, is still in operation. You can soak in a spring-fed tub and get a 60-minute massage for less than $100.

Shop for stuff you didn’t know you needed

Over the years, some shops have come and gone in Berkeley Springs but we’ve always found something to like. We love the stationery/letter press/used book store and have found some great reading materials there, as well as cool literary gifts. The older boys’ favorite store, hands-down, is the friendly music store, BlackCat, which recently moved to a cool warehouse space near the railroad tracks.

There are also several antique stores selling everything from old albums to toys to clothing and furniture. On our last trip, I picked up a fabulous 50s dress that would have made Auntie Mame squeal.

There’s a definite new-agey-Tibetan vibe to some of the shops and don’t be surprised if you see a tarot card or aura reader setting up shop in the back. Last October, I eavesdropped on a reading where a stunned patron was told an incredible tale about the soul of her seventh grade self. So yes, the real deal.

Grab coffee and hot chocolate at Fairfax Coffee House

Great coffee and great location. Grab a coffee drink, cross the street, and you’re at the park with the kids. Everybody’s happy.

The Star Theater

From the vintage marquee to the vintage ticket prices ($4.50 for adults and $4.00 for children), the Star Theater takes us back to a time I frankly don’t remember at all—before the multiplex, the crowds, and wallet-punches of a modern theater experience. They show a good selection of movies on weekends only. When she’s not doling out popcorn, the owner Jeanne Mozier, is an award-winning writer and astrologer and—do I even need to say it—a local institution in her own right.

Over the years, we’ve gotten to know and love Berkeley Springs and Cacapon State Park. From the heat of the fire in cabin’s stone fireplace to the steam of a hot bowl of soup at Tari’s, Berkeley Springs has warmed our family’s soul for fourteen years.